Scopello

Scopello - 17/9 to 19/9

Last stop in Italy - Scopello, a tiny 2 street town which borders a National Park and has pristine waters ideal for snorkelling.

We bumped into a couple of Barwon Heads girls - Holly and Stacey - which was a total spin out, so we shared a few beers with them in the piazza before they were picked up by a Jesus lookalike in a comby van.

After making a hell mission through farmlands to take a massive shortcut down to the beach we spend the day discovering underwater caves in the most untouched and best snorkelling environment in Europe. Big call....but we stand by it.

From here we went to Palermo for our flight out of Italy. Palermo...... dodgiest place we have been in Europe and for the first time ever - there is nothing positive to write about. To top it off we searched the city for an hour to find a pizza........and failed!!?? Couldn't believe it. Enough said - get me out of here!

Highlights

- Bumping into a few locals from back home.

- Snorkelling through caves, crevices and 100 foot underwater drops in the clearest water we found in Europe.

- The hotel owner in Palermo who was watching them play football in reception - all we heard all game was "Bla blah blah AHHHH FUNGOL!" The only classic moment in Dodgy Palermo.

Cefalù

Cefalù 10/9 to 17/9

We were hoping to stay in Capo d'Orlando a few extra nights but couldn't get onto the owner of the apartment so TC decided that we would board the next train to Cefalù. Dazza was a bit hesitant as he had read that it was a huge tourist town and not the tranquil little village he was after where an old Italian lady would take him in and cook him a 5 course dinner - stop dreaming Dazza!

With no plans and no accommodation we started walking towards the town centre. I think it was literally 5 minutes later when Angelo asked whether we needed accommodation. He took us to the centre of the old town right next to the main piazza with the beautiful Duomo Cathedral. Our third floor apartment was fully equipped with a great balcony overlooking the narrow blue stone street below. Perfect for afternoon drinks while watching the action below.

We told Angelo we would stay 3 nights however after discovering the true beauty of Cefalù with its white sand beaches, excellent snorkelling and great body surfing we stayed 2 more..... and then another 2 more! It was truly amazing the first day the sun was shinning, the sand was glistering and the waves where 2-3 foot - Dazza was almost rabid. The the next day it was completely still - perfect for snorkelling! In between our swims we got 5 euro massages from the friendly Chinese and Thai ladies. Total bliss - cant wait for SE Asia!

Highlight of the week

Falling in love with the locals particularly the old lady in the fruit & vegetable shop who gave Dazza his daily Italian lesson.

Highlights

- Flashpacking by having a mouthwatering 3 course meal in a restaurant set over the coastal rocks and 1ft from the sea - amazing food, amazing view!

- Walking the cliff above the old town and seeing the ancient fort walls and castle.

- The sunsets against the beautiful old town of Cefalù where the houses are literally the sea walls

MOC MOC

Siestas - don't get us wrong, normally we are the worlds biggest fans of the 'after-lunch-nap' but closing the Internet cafes right in the middle of Collingwood Vs West Coast - we couldn't believe it and aged Dazza another 5 years!

Taormina - Capo d'Orlando

Taormina 1/9 - 6/9/07

After a leisurely 1 hour train ride we walked to our 4 star hotel in Taormina (Giardini Naxos). After hostelling in Catania - this place was flashpacker heaven! An unbeatable deal on the Internet (asiarooms.com - thanks little Waz) gave us free breaky, an awesome pool, Sky TV and free...... yes FREE Internet!! We settled in for the Liverpool v Derby game with a few Sicilian beers for company and watched the Pool demolish them 6-0. Torres is the real deal!! 5 nights here allowed us to catch up on calls to family and some long needed emails - that is when Eddy the 16 year old English kid let us on!! The place is pretty stylish with a fair bit of $$ getting around.

HIGHLIGHT OF THE WEEK

After overhearing a tour guide talking about an 'explosion' we followed a group of old fogies for a 45 minute walk around the bay to see Mt. Etna in all her glory spurting lava high into the sky. We were later informed via Australia that there had been several small earthquakes that had caused Mt. Etna to erupt. We sat and watched spellbound!

HIGHLIGHTS

- Limone granite!!

- Best gelati we have had in Sicily.

- Lounging around the pool.

- Having a cheeky vodka and soda by the pool!

- Exploring Taormina.

- Unable to find a bus down the mountain from Taormina (height of 1,500 feet), we decided to walk down back to our hotel (sea level). TC wasn't happy, but hey we can't spend our holidays waiting for buses!

- Sampling a great bottle of local Vino Nero D'avoli.

- Eating some delightful seafood dishes with the lobster ravioli a standout.

- Losing 4 kilos each - not sure if it was food poisoning or gastro, but who's complaining!

- The local family at the mini market who were watching the Motorbike GP in their shop. After dropping Casey Stoner's name, they made a big fuss over us (free fruit) and were super friendly to us all week. That's what we love about travelling - meeting friendly locals!

Capo d'Orlando 6/9 - 10/9/07

Another train ride - this time to a small beachside town. I saw a good picture of this place in a mag, so we thought - why not? We got an apartment (with a massive kitchen!) in the centre of town that was a whole 100m from the beach. It was a 8km stretch of sand that had fantastic sunsets. We soaked up plenty of sun and cooked up many a feast for lunch and dinner. Great to have a home cooked meal!

HIGHLIGHT OF THE WEEK

Talking to Narelle and Glen to find out that the PIES and CATS had both won!!!! Finals fever has hit Sicily!!!

HIGHLIGHTS

- watching some amazing sunsets.

- cooking up plenty of spaghetti con aglio é olio é pepperoncino as well as a mean snitzel!!

- watching cheesy Italian game shows (a highlight for TC anyway!)

- 6am walks around the coast.

- mauling sun!

MOC MOC AWARD - or as this week called the moc moc moc moc moc award (literally). After a bit of gastro we were both running at 0% for 3 days. Lucky we had 4 star toilets. Good prep for TC in Asia!

SICILY - CATANIA

We plan to spend the next 4 weeks travelling around Sicily - the island of hot summers, lemon everything, the mafia and a touch of African influence into the Italian culture.

First stop - Catania.

CATANIA 28/8 - 1/9/07

From one mafia stricken city to another, an exhaustive travel day led us to the land of the black trench coated mafia - Sicily! The hostel (which was a Grechy recommendation) had an excellent location next to a huge fresh food market which stocked everything and anything! It also had a great restaurant/bar that at 11pm on the dot, filled with 200-250 locals who ate, drank and were very merry.

After dropping our bags off and heading to the bar we were approached by about 10 young Sicilians who were mostly studying medicine at the local uni. They turned out to be awesome people who were very interested in talking to some Australians about life, love and of course.... the football! The Grechy lookalike was an absolute classic bloke who had us in stitches! We shared many a laugh and hope to see them again in Australia where we can repay their hospitality! Saluti!!

As the temperature hit a soaring 35 degrees, we spent the next 2 days at a private beach - Aci Castello, where we had all day use of the sun beds, showers, umbrellas, pool and assorted luxury items for a reasonable 7 euro per person. The beach itself is made up of black basalt rock from Mt. Etna - a massive volcano sitting behind Catania. The turquoise water was super warm but had a series of random ice cold patches coming from some volcanic fissures. It was quite exhilarating hitting one of these patches but was a welcome relief from the heat!

We found a beer stand which sold the local brew for 1 euro a bottle next to a great little park. We sat next to the fountain with the locals and contemplated life in the true Italian way!

The locals didn't start eating until at least 10pm. We couldn't resist the smell coming from a BBQ cooking fresh meat from the market. After a 10 minute explanation of his assortment (all in Italian) we Si, Si'd our way to 2 mouthwatering 'steak' sandwiches. They could go down as one of the best things I have ever eaten! It wasn't until several hours later that our local mates informed us that it was actually horse! They couldn't understand the look of astonishment on our faces...... eating Phar Lap?? Tastes better than it sounds!

MOC MOC AWARD - The springs in all the bunk beds in the hostel were the loudest springs in the world! The only thing that was louder was the express train zooming past our window early each morning! And the only thing more annoying than the noise was constantly getting eaten alive by the mossies.

FOOTNOTE - The people, location, 2 for 1 drinks and everything else about the hostel was fantastic!

ST PETERSBURG - 22/8 to 28/8

After two long travel days we arrived at St Petersburg airport, where the buses to transport us to the terminal looked like the original buses from WW1. The arrival hall was packed with anxious tourists awaiting the dreaded Russian passport control. After our long journey to the Hotel via the packed local bus, metro and massive walk in 30 degree heat we arrived to be greeted by 20 dodgy looking locals drinking in the courtyard! Finally we reached our boutique hotel to be met by Troy and Jean with cold beers!

We had Japanese(yes...the new Russian favourite....they have embraced the modern multicultural restaurant and bar scene that gives both Melbourne and London a run for it's money). Following our catch up on all the London and travel gossip we headed to the legendary bar which celebrates New Years Eve every single night! We walked into the place and soon after entering were greeted by a massive Arnold Schwarzenegger lookalike bouncer who whispered into Troy's ear that it would cost 1000 rub (30 euro) for a table - we reckon it was our first Russian scam. We were escorted to one of the best tables overlooking all the action by a rabbit who dressed us in Santa Jackets to help us join in the festivities. Carafes of vodka and Russian Champagne was ordered before the clock struck 12! Happy New Year, sparklers, streamers and of course a massive unique 30th celebration for Troy - not sure whether you can top celebrating NYE in August in St Petersburg with Rabbits on your 30th birthday! After we stumbled home we all agreed that it was one of the quirkiest nights we have ever had!

The next few days we walked all over St Petersburg taking in all the major sights:

HERMITAGE - one of the largest museums set in amazing Russian buildings and palaces.
St ISAAC'S CATHEDRAL - panoramic views of the city
CHURCH OF SPLIT BLOOD - an amazing Russian church with colourful onion domes and an interior covered with mosaics
VICTORY MONUMENT - massive statues that displayed true emotions of the WWII sacrifices that the people made for their country - thanks for the recommendation Joe & Val
CHESMA CHURCH - small pink church commissioned by Catherine the Great
PETER & PAUL FORTESS, PALACE SQUARE, BRONZE HORSEMAN, SUMMER GARDENS.........

We tasted numerous local cuisine, inlcuding borsh, beef stroganoff, caviar, cabbage... but no pierogi.............until our very last meal in Russia where we finally tracked down some berry pierogi...... Joey you would have loved them! They were stunning!

HIGHLIGHTS

- Celebrating Troy's 30th with rabbits and NYE celebrations

- Watching a Russian concert which went crazy with the ol classic 'MOSCOW MOSCOW.......'

- Trying Georgian food

- Buying a Russian hat and Matryoshky doll from the market.

- Spontaneous strip teases in the bars

MOMENT OF THE WEEK / MAULERS OF THE WEEK
The 1 thing I really wanted to do whilst here was to have a vodka drinking session with some Russians. We found a great group of 20 somethings at our local bar 'Pinup' and set about getting stuck into it. Needless to say they absolutely destroyed us leaving Troy at home throwing up and me spilling the last shot all over my T-shirt before breaking into a cold sweat. The locals were alarmed and were very concerned for my well being - but TC always the diplomat managed to calm them by explaining I had Russian blood in me and would be alright!! This calmed their fears so we exchanged email addresses and left them doing their imitation kangaroo hops down the street. The things we do to help unite the world!

JELSA - 7/8 to 12/8

We arrived in Jelsa and found our apartment after being directed once again by the friendly locals. The FKK got a fair workout over our time here with the rocky coastline providing a haven for loads of fish. Our mornings involved yogurt, juice, walking, sun baking, swimming, followed by more swimming and sun baking after a light lunch. Our favourite part of the day was an ice-cold pivo on our balcony overlooking the harbour after a hot walk back from the beach. Our nightly meals considered of scampi, big mama steak, pizza and of course TC's favorite Risotto Fruitti de Mare!


HVAR TOWN 12/8 to 16/8

(Guest appearance - Carls & Milt)

Next stop the glitziest and most glamorous town in Croatia - Hvar Town - where the big boats are home to massive wallets and guys batting WAY above their average. We met up with our good mates Carls and Milt who popped over from London for their summer holiday. With the fridge fully stocked we got stuck into it right away. An innocent drinking game came to an abrupt halt when Milton passed out (see Mauler of the week for more info).

We found some awesome spots to spend the days lounging around on rocks, chatting and splashing the hours away. Picture this - Milt with 4 meter cannonballs, DF with his perfect girl-like pindrops, TC doing half dive / half ??? and Carls doing 'oops lost the cozzie' dives! The tans copped a serous workout and all was ready for the AFTER BEACH PARTY!! Sangria, shots and pivos were our drinks but for the 100 odd Italians in skintight speedos dancing on tables to the pumping music - it was free pouring wine down each others throats and spraying expensive French champagne down each others tops! The Italians were awesome entertainment! What a day.......what else could happen????

Well, after a bite to eat the boys decided for a night out on the town, G-town style! The girls headed back home for a peaceful night rest (but did they get it? Stay tuned!) The boys headed to the local nightclub - set in an old fortress - complete with old school castle walls. To avoid the 10 euro cover charge our fearless young (and half charged) men decided to scale the 12 foot wall, complete with barbed wire and spiky metal diamonds! After a few close calls they were in and set about tearing the dance floor up with the 300 Italian blokes who were group hugging and chanting.

At about 4.30am it was time to head home - what a night......shortly after we were greeted by Carls on the stairs 'We've been robbed!' F%#@!!! It seems that while we were eating dinner our apartment had been broken into, our bags slashed, our i-pods, wallets, sunnies etc stolen. The girls had been trying to find us and needless to say we left like dogs!

The next day was spent with Croatian Inspector Morse as they took fingerprints and got our details - fun times! 1 more day at the beach and our time together had come to an end. Thanks for the good times guys and see you at Oktoberfest!!

BOL - 16/8 to 21/8

We rocked up in Bol to some cool 'new as' accommodation on the hill. A couple of welcome pivos from the owners and we had 2 new best friends. Bol - home to Zlanti Rat - Croatia's most famous beach. If you ever come to Croatia it's a must see! Our usual routine of swimming, sun baking and eating continued but the snorkelling was the best we have done!

After having spent 47 days in the country over the last 2 trips it has a special place in our hearts. It's going to be sad to say goodbye but the memories we have and the North Geelong Croatian Club will ensure the people and places are not forgotten!

HIGHLIGHTS

Jesla
- Being caught in a mini 'monsoon' while walking home only to be ushered into the local church for protection. The big fella must have been looking out for us.
- Pizza and local red vino on the rocks over looking the night life in the harbour.
- Espresso - so strong it kept us awake for 48 hours!
- After pivos, red wine and 'on the house' grappa TC spilling a glass of red all over DF's new Tshirt and leaving...yes leaving not just the restaurant but half a litre of wine undrunk!!

Hvar
- After Beach Party!
- Milts ordering roast beef but getting the best steak we have seen in Croatia - very jealous!
- Finding our own diving (or bombing) platform
- Spending time with 2 great mates

Bol
- Snorkelling - best ever!
- Fancying it up with a sensational fish platter overlooking the sea!
- Our hosts - 'cool as oldie' - they want to adopt us!
- Croatian weather - 30 + above every day!
- TC being mistaken for an Italian everywhere - she reckons it was her tan (maybe - I reckon it might also be due to her nose!)

MAULER of the week
Our young friend Milts having given the red a mauling disappears into the bedroom at about 9:30pm where he passes out! DF is on the case to get him up, armed with the hairdryer and deodorant he gives it his all!! The result - Milt curled up in the fetal position after throwing up all night! At least he had fresh breath!!!


MOC MOC of the week
The boys carving up the dance floor at the castle while the girls were terrified after finding the apartment ransacked! Ooopps!

Dubrovnik 2/8 - 5/8/07

A wise man once said 'Dubrovnik is the jewel of the Adriatic'. We say........ damm straight!!

A return to Dubrovnik felt like coming home. With the temperature a steady 29 degrees, water temp a magnificent 25, ice cold pivos, an abundance of seafood, numerous beach bars to crawl along and the Croatians treating us like long lost family........ well this could be heaven.

After a 9 month absence from sunny beaches our first objective was to lose our pasty white english skin. DF's plan of 1 hour of sun and half an hour of shade all day was blown out of the water by a group of Estonians who set up directly in front of us. The Estonian girls wouldn't have been out of place at Miss World while TC rekons the guys were 'cute as'. This added to our already perfect view put a change on the plans. Needless to say after 4 straight hours in the sun DF's white skin had been replaced by a shade of fluorescent pink! The things you do for a nice view! With a few beachside pivos to complete the afternoon, life was back to its relaxed best. There was a feast that night of seafood risotto and pizza. TC was especially excited to see 1L of vino on the menu - yep life is good!

We spent the next 3 days eating, drinking, swimming and sunbaking til our hearts were content. This time was a totally different experience from last time with Stix, Eggy, MJ, Stiv and Jo (also known as the original maulers), but once again we had an extraordinary time - Dubrovnik - the jewell of the Adriatic!

Stari Grad 5/8 - 7/8/07

After a 6 hour ferry ride to Stari Grad we bartered for a room and got one in the town centre. Stari Grad is an old school town full of Croatians and a few Italians. We decided to do some hiking and find an isolated spot in the middle of no-where. We walked along an old dusty track for what seemed like hours and set up camp in a spot that could have been from the Blue Lagoon. Turquosie water with a pine forest backdrop. Perfect spot to spend a day swimming and sunbaking. The tan is coming along nicely and should be ready for when we meet up with Carls and Milt in Hvar Town. Next stop though Jelsa............................

HIGHLIGHT -

Swimming, floating or just enjoying the crystal clear waters of Croatians fabled coastline.

Other Highlights

- After lugging our backpacks up about a million stairs, we were greeted by the owner with 2 ice-cold beers in hand. Talk about hospitality!

- Returning to our fav seafood restaurant in the Old Town only to run into our fav Croatian waiter with his South Park tie! Hasn't changed it in a year! Once again - food spot on.

- Watching a firefighting plane pick up water from the harbour and dump it on a bushfire burning on the hill just above the town.

- Being served a gelato by a Croatian more Auzzie than Dazza. 'See ya round like a rissole' was the icing on the cake!

MOC MOC AWARD - Being picked up in a car that could have been 200 years old and then getting to the room to be greeted by a bathroom even older!

MAULER AWARD - TC's eyes lit up the moment she saw 1L bottles of vino on the menu..... but can you imagine her excitement levels when we picked up 1.5L in the ol water bottle from the old guy down the road. Talk about all your Christmases!